April 22
Lausanne, too early in the morning: Knock. Knock knock. I stumble out of my dream and out of bed. My door opens to blinding light and a worried roommate: “Ça va, Cathy? T’es prête? On a dix minutes...” TEN MINUTES?! I nearly trip over my circus-issue pyjama pants on my way to the alarm clock. 4:50am. What was I thinking, booking a 5:30 train? Cheap tickets, of course.
10:00: In Marseille! Apparently, we passed through Lyon on the way from Geneva... What can’t I sleep like this on an airplane?
11:00: Bags dropped off and maps in hand, time to hit the Noailles Markets.
A seafood pizza for $5, made while you watch? We’re not in Switzerland anymore!
We devoure it by the beautiful Vieux Port (Old Port) of Marseille. Salty olives, tomato lips and the smell of the sea.
14:00: On a boat to l’Isle d’If, or more accurately, “around l’Isle d’If”. Unfortunately, the wind this weekend is determined to prevent us from visiting the château from The Count of Monte Cristo. We also sadly miss out on kayaking around the famous calanques (“a geologic formation in the form of a deep valley with steep sides, typically of limestone, in part submerged by the sea”. Thank you, Wikipedia). Next time, next time.
17:00: Cathédrale Notre Dame de la Garde, one of the most beautiful places I have ever set foot in. I say this not only for its aesthetic splendour, but for the emotion and reverence it evokes in me. I’m not sure how long I just stand at the entrance, goose bumps on my skin and tears in my eyes. I can still hear the music that resonated in that holy place. I may not agree with many things that religion has to say, but there is no denying that this space is pure and sacred.
20:00: Don Giovanni at the Marseille Municipal Opera. Ten euro seats aren’t the best ones in the house, but we are in! And it is incredible. The music (we know how much I love Mozart), the acting, the theatre... One of many in the city, the map tells me. I think I may just have to live in Europe someday.
April 23
9:00: Walking around the city, admiring Easter-mad boulangeries and giggling at the Marseillaise accent. It is sadly rainy, but still beautiful. Also, shopping here is good. Too good. The little boutiques may be a bit exorbitant, but H&M sure isn’t...
12:00: A playground with a view. We enjoy both very much.
15:00: Walking along the port to Cathédrale de la Major – another slice of purity, another moment of peace. Actually, this would develop into a pattern during the next ten days. It is my time to centre myself, to forget the city maps, the street merchants and the tourist crowds. I am not saying that the two are otherwise comparable, but churches in France do remind me a little of spas in Bali!
19:00: Toinou Restaurant. With no men by our side, my roommate and I decide nonetheless to share a romantic dinner for two. Why not? Marseille is famous for its seafood after all. And quite rightly so!
